Construction Deal Update

Labels: Home Improvement, Saving Money, Tankless Water Heaters, Water Heaters

We wanted to let our blog readers know that ConstructionDeal.com has added to our growing list of services for homeowners! We have partnered with a major home loan company to help make sure those who use our site have access to financing for their projects.

When you post your home improvement job -- for free -- with Construction Deal, you'll also be able to apply online for a home equity or homeowner line of credit to help pay for your construction, remodeling, or major repair project. Or, if you're interested in purchasing a new or existing home, you'll also be able to apply for a mortgage through our site!

Our goal at Construction Deal is make sure you get your home improvement project done. We are the Smart Way to Find a Contractor!

Please visit the Construction Deal Lending Center for further details!

One of the best ways to breathe new life into your bathroom is to update your fixtures. It's not a terribly complicated or expensive bathroom improvement. And if you're planning a complete bathroom renovation down the road, bringing in new fixtures is a great jumping off point for your redesign. Cabinets, vanities, lighting, and furniture in the bath area can be brought in accompany your new fixtures.

My first suggestion is not to skimp on the cost of new bathroom faucets and shower fixtures. These items can and should last a long time and are exposed to repeated use. Go with a decent brand and you'll be happier in the long run.

Consider going beyond just chrome. Chrome is still the most popular for the aesthetics and the durability. It can be cleaned easily, but remember that chrome always shows stains and fingerprints. A new metal could be more unique, more stylish, and require less cleaning maintenance. A brushed nickel, stainless steel, or brushed bronze opens up new possibilities for your room. You can get matching metals and designs in your shower fixtures, towel racks, paper holders, and even your tank levers. Don't forget that it's a great idea to bring your cabinets into the design -- match your cabinet hardware to your new room fixtures.

I'm a big fan of both the Moen and Kohler fixtures. And there are so many styles to choose from - traditional, contemporary, and transitional. The type of faucet you want is important. Do you want a sink-mounted style? A wall-mounted version? Single or double handle?

As far as trend go, the classic/antique look is very big. New modern fixtures in the old styles from the 30's through the 50's are hot again. The Bamboo/Roman fixtures to give the Asian relaxation spa look and feel are big as well. Wall-mounted faucets with raised, bowl sinks are also very popular.

If you're looking for a bathroom designer, post your project with us for free and you can receive bids from local experts to help you make the right choices for your lifestyle and to make the right match for your bathroom.

I'm reaching out to all the readers of the ConstructionDeal.com Update. I wanted to get a feel for how many homeowners are planning to do any remodeling this year or next. I know that many people have concerns over the economy, the housing market, inflation, elections, and interest rates. But I also know the average modern American home is aging and could be in need of some serious repairs and/or remodeling.

In the next six months, are you planning to do any major renovations?

If so, what type of home renovation projects do you have planned?

If not, what - if anything - is holding you back?


Post a comment and let me know what you're up to! Thanks!

As a homeowner, it's very important that you keep your investment protected. And your home is your biggest investment. There is more than likely a very useful but also a very dangerous device in your house and you need to... stay on top of it. I'm talking about your clothes dryer.

Guess what, it can be a real fire hazard. "But," you say, "I clean the lint screen!" Doesn't matter. Your lint screen catches maybe 75% of all the lint your dryer produces. If you don't do any regular cleaning and maintenance on it yourself, the lint could build up -- which overheats the dryer motor and creates a fire hazard.

First -- you do know there's a lint screen, right? Just checking. You'd be surprised how many people don't know that. There should be a small door or gate somewhere on the top or front of your dryer. Open it, pull it out, inspect it. If you've never done this before -- and your house has not caught fire -- I'd be amazed. But, if this is new to you, go ahead and remove what is probably enough lint to knit a large cat... Do this after every load or every use.

Second -- really check your lint trap. Don't just look at it, run water over it. If some or all of the water stays suspended into the filter, it's not all getting cleaned out when you pull it away. Some of the fibers from clothing and dryer sheets can be clear and nearly invisible. Try to wash and scrub the lint filter every three to six months, depending on usage.

Third-- does your dryer have a vent? It's the metal piping running from the bottom, back of your dryer. If not, get one installed. They have replacements at most hardware stores. If you do have one, make sure that you go outside and check for any debris that might be covering the vent. If your vent goes into the attic -- be careful! Sometimes vents are not set up to even vent outdoors. They only vent into the attic. This can cause problems. Check to make sure nothing is crushing the vent behind your dryer. If it's too long, with lots of twists and turns, you can shorten it up. Also, if you have a flexible plastic or fabric vent, replace it with an aluminum one.

Fourth -- keep your distance. Make sure the dryer is 18" to 24" away from the wall. Even if you've got limited space, keeping the dryer away from the wall can prevent overheating, crushing your vent, and lint buildup.

Fifth -- clean the duct under your lint filter. Depending on the model, you may be able to use your vacuum cleaner attachment to clean out the area where the lint filter goes. It's possible you may need a professional to get in there and clean it thoroughly but try to do what you can. I also know there are some after-market attachments you can buy for your vacuum cleaner for this very purpose. Here's a dryer brush product you might try for cleaning, as well.

Keeping your dryer maintained is not sexy. But it can keep your home safe and... can save you money on your energy bills. A dryer that doesn't have to work as hard works more efficiently. To save even more money, you can replace your dryer with a new Energy Star model. Or, dry less clothing -- hanging clothing out to air-dry can save a boatload of money!

With the housing market in turmoil, many people are deciding not to sell. What's the answer then, if you've got an expanding family or you simply need more room? If you can't afford a vacation home (although next year should be a good time to buy a 2nd property, when housing prices dip dramatically), you might think about expanding your current one.

A "Home Addition" can sound really scary. Adding on to your home doesn't always mean ripping off your roof and adding a whole 2nd floor. A home addition company might simply add on a garage, a back porch, or an extra bathroom which could really make a difference in your living situation.

I wanted to provide some useful tips just in case you're planning to hire a home addition contractor... to make sure every goes right.

Home Additions - Inspect It

• If you're going to make even minor wall changes to your house, please (please, please!) bring in a structural engineer. Anytime you're going to knock out a wall, it could affect the integrity of the building. A general contractor may not completely understand the engineering of every home structure and could give bad advice. It may sound "expensive" to hire a structural engineer, but imagine how more you'd spend if a side of your home fell off...
  

• Get your permits. Nothing is more obvious than a home addition, no matter how small or insignificant. Even if you get away with doing the work without a permit, a homeowner is going to notice part of the house is new. Don't get caught having to pay fines, penalties, and maybe even pay to have the work removed and re-done after an inspection.

Home Additions - Plan It

• If you're adding to your home, by expanding out or up, it's important to also talk with an architect or designer. Why? Because you really don't want your add-on to look like it was added on. You want it to blend seamlessly into your neighborhood background. Are all the homes around your's single-story, two-bedroom bungalows? If you plop a 2nd floor on, with dormers, and cozy third floor attic, it could look out of place. That's fine if you're going to stay in the home forever, but you could have a problem selling the eyesore down the road. To make sure your addition works, talk with a designer who can help give you what you want without sacrificing the look and value of the house.
  

• Also, homes were built in specific areas of the country in specific eras. Many times, an architect or inspector will be able to review your home plans and your original blueprints to determine if your house can support the extra weight of a 2nd floor. The structure of your house might not be capable to handling an addition -- homes originally built with 2nd floors have different framing, so you want to make sure your home can handle it.
  

• Your current heating and cooling ducts and unit are set up for the current number of rooms in your home. Adding even a sunroom or extra bathroom could throw things off. Consult an HVAC company to inspect your air flow requirements with an addition room or floor.
  

• Make sure your designer takes in all aspects of the other homes in your neighborhood: doors, windows, paint, siding, roofs, and elevation. These should all work with the architecture of the home and the surrounding area.
  

Home Additions - Build It

• Prepare for the major disruption of having workers, equipment, and materials (as well as dust, debris, and possible damage) that will be invading your house. On a floor addition, you'll have to relocate to other living quarters, but you might be able to work around a bedroom addition or having your kitchen expanded. Review my post on preparing for a remodel.
  

• Take plenty of pictures and monitor the work. Keep track of all the details in case there are problems or disputes down the road (and, also, to remember the experience.)
  

• When it's all said and done, don't forget to email me your pictures of the job! We'll post them on this blog!
  

Good luck with your home addition experience!

Whether you paint your home's interior yourself, or hire someone to do the job, it's important to know how to pick out the right paint. It can be a daunting task while standing in the paint aisle at Home Depot and you're looking at rows and rows of paint cans...

You probably have an idea of the color you want, but you need to think about the "sheen" of your interior paint. Sheen is the amount of light reflected off the surface of your paint. You can choose from zero reflection -- flat -- to high reflection -- gloss -- paints for your home.

Flat Paint - light doesn't reflect off the surface and the paint hides imperfections in the wall. However, it's very hard to clean. A simple dirt smudge will not wipe off and may need to be painted again to cover. Great for ceilings (and large walls where there is very little traffic.)

Eggshell Paint - low sheen that is great for bedrooms, dining rooms, ceilings, and office walls. Can still hide wall imperfections, but the imperfections could still be visible under heavy light.

Satin Paint - higher sheen that eggshell. Easy to clean. Perfect for nearly every room. Great for hallways and rooms with higher traffic. Imperfections are more visible. Not great for plaster walls for that very reason.

Semi-Gloss Paint - 2nd highest sheen. Great for kitchens and bathrooms. Very easy to clean and maintain. Imperfections very visible. Great for moulding, baseboards, window and door trim and other high traffic areas.

Gloss Paint - very tough and durable. Highest sheen possible. Every problem in the wall will be visible under minimal light. Easiest to clean and very long lasting. Perfect for the kitchen and high-humidity bath areas.

Do you need a primer? A primer can make it easy to change from a dark or a bright (loud) color and you'll need fewer coats of paint. Also, if there are any stains on the surface, the primer will help hide those problem areas. And if you're painting on new materials, primer can help the paint bond to the wood, drywall, or other surface. Primer can also help if you're going from a latex to an oil-based paint, or vice versa, to make sure the paint adheres.

Here's a great painting tip that most people never do. Say you're going to paint a large living room and you'll need three, four, or even five gallons of paint. You have the home store mix up your paint in each can, but sometimes those colors can be off -- even just slightly off. But that's is enough to make the mis-match show up in streaks and patches on your walls when you're done. It's important to take ALL your cans of paint and 'mix them together' in one big bucket BEFORE you start to paint! And stir it all up! This will make sure the paint is one solid, consistent color. And, voila, no streaks!

Finally, to get the best and smoothest paint look in your new room, make sure you paint all your edges, corners, and trim FIRST. Then use your rollers on the wall around those parts. It's how the pros do it!

Good luck -- and send us some pictures of your painted walls!

Hate to paint? Use our network to find a local painting company.

Labels: Home Improvement, Remodeling Trends, Saving Money

Looks like Old Man Winter has made an early arrival. An early October snow storm swept through the midwest and great lakes region, slamming Buffalo, New York through the night, causing the snowiest October day in city history. Other areas hit by snow include Grand Rapids, MI, Chicago, IL and portions of Canada. Let us know if you need to find a snow removal specialist.

Looks like my previous post on Preparing Your Home for Winter was none-too-early. But for those of you who have just had to turn on your heater... and it didn't work, I wanted to provide some info on buying a new Heating System for your home.

Buying a New Heating (and/or Cooling) System

Heating and cooling systems should last 15 to 20 years. If your's is older than that, or if has just quit on you, it might be time to replace rather than repair your HVAC equipment. It's a major expense but modern heating and cooling equipment can operate more efficiently than the older units.

Most HVAC Contractors specialize in installing the equipment of a few manufacturers, so keep this in mind when preparing to talk about replacing your system. Why? Well, it will be important to do your homework on the brands out there, to talk to several companies about those brands, and decide what your budget is and what amenities you need to come with your new HVAC system. Try to go with a contractor that installs at least 2 different brands. They won't be pushing one style (because it's all they have!) -- they'll do what's best for your home.

The key to having a new Heating & Cooling system installed is getting the right size unit required for your house. Your contractor will have to do a heat loss calculation - how much heat is being sucked out of your house by the cold air outside, measured in btu's. It takes into account your insulation, the number and quality of materials of your doors and windows, and the region of the country where your house is located. If they contractor doesn't do this calculation, using software that most companies have, you could end up getting a recommendation for too large of a unit (which will cost more and use more energy to run.)

Your Heating Contractor should also advise you to perform some energy-saving upgrades and then have you go with a smaller unit, if possible. Adding or upgrading insulation, replacing certain windows and doors, whole-house fans, programmable thermostats, and even adding some ceiling fans (fans can be used to circulate heat as well as cool air) can cut down on heating requirements.

If you receive a payback calculation (and you should, if you've got a good HVAC company), which shows you how much a unit will cost to run, keep in mind that the costs may be an average for the entire country. Some western and southern states do not have as high of utility rates because of warmer weather. You may not get the same savings you expected from the calculation if you live in a warmer part of the country.

Still more valuable info from our acid stained concrete pro Joe Welsh, at Stained By Design!

We recently covered Interior and Exterior Care of your Acid Stained Concrete Flooring. But it's probably a good idea to let you know how to put stained concrete floors down in the first place! So, let's cover the necessary steps to prepare your slab for stained concrete. Now, this can information for the do-it-yourselfer but if you're going to have a decorative concrete professional handle the job, it would be good to know the correct procedure. That way, if may be able to spot a problem before it arises. Joe pointed out this problem he saw on the Home Improvement Ideas site with info on stained flooring, where it says, "Basically it's when the concrete is colored as part of the mixing process (as opposed to being painted after it's laid and dried.)" According to Joe, "If you tried to add acid stain to the mix, you'd have concrete that would crumble like stale bread after a year." So, study his prep guide and show it to your concrete installer if you see something being done incorrectly:

Preparing a Slab for Stained Concrete

1) A quality batch of concrete should consist of at least a 5-sack mix with minimal fly-ash, no retarder, curing compounds or chloride accelerators. Do not pour below 40°F. Do not use fly-ash below 80°F. Use no more than 15% fly-ash above 80°F. The slab should be hard troweled by machine to a smooth finish. It is NOT necessary to burnish the surface to a slick, mirror finish. "Burning" the slab to an ultra smooth surface will close off the pours of the slab and cause the stain to sit on top of the concrete and not penetrate. A bit smoother than a garage floor is optimum. Make sure the Finishers don’t get "burrs", rocks, or debris caught under the blades which can cut swirl marks into the slab.

2) It is important that the concrete be thoroughly finished with hand tools, where needed, around the plumbing, risers, floor outlets, or any other element which is not accessible by the machine. Special care should be taken to blend in the areas at the exterior edges of the slab. If the finish is smooth in the center and rough-finished at the edges, there will be a noticeable difference of color and tone between these areas.

3) Silicone chalks should NOT be used, if at all possible. The red and yellow chalks are PERMANENT DYES. Red chalk should NOT be used for framing. White or blue chalks are okay. Do NOT use silicone sprays to "Hold" the lines. The sprays repel the stain and leaves harsh, permanent scars on the floor.

4) It is important that wood, sheet goods, sections of framing and the like not laid on the slab for extended periods of time. They can transfer resins and tannins into the slab. This will alter the moisture content in the slab which leaves a pattern in the finished floor. Cardboard should be placed between the slab and the stacked material to minimize any unwanted transfers.

5) The floor should be protected from the following: plumbers glue, foam insulation, bond release agents, flux, oils, grease, polyurethane, paint, markers (framers often write dimensions of doorways in marker on the slab - ask them to make that note on the wood framing the doorway), grease sticks, spray paints, crayons, muratic acid, and other chemicals both before and after staining. Also ask that locations of electrical and other outlets be marked on the studs and not on the floor.

6) The framers should brace the walls to the outside and not to the slab. Door plates should be cut away immediately.

7) The floors should be clean and the rooms empty, with absolutely nothing on the floors prior to the arrival of the stain crew. The best time to stain the floors is when you are Blacked-In with a roof on. The slab is at it’s cleanest at this point in time. After the Stain and Sealer, the floor should be covered with "Builder’s Paper" to protect it from the drywall mud and paint.

8) At the “Pre-Trim” stage, a refresher coat of sealer will bring the floors back to life.

9) It is extremely important that you do not tape the floor! When covering the floor, overlap sheets of builder’s paper (Roofing paper is a great covering item, too.) Tape the first sheet to the wall then overlap the second sheet to the first and tape it to the paper. DO NOT PUT TAPE ON THE FLOOR. Use no tape! Duct tape, masking tape, packing tape, strap tape, blue tape, green tape, stucco tape and electrical tape – there are NO exceptions. It alters the natural curing process and transfers chemicals to and from the slab. This will show in the finished product.

10) When covering the floor, you may use sheets of masonite or single-faced cardboard on top of the builder’s paper. however, do not cover the floor with plastic at any time! It prevents the slab from breathing, which inhibits proper curing. It can result in efflorescence."

If you're in Louisiana, contact Joe about getting your interior floors resurfaced with decorative concrete overlays at (337) 316-4505 or you can email him. If you'd like to talk to a decorative concrete specialist in your area, you can find one here.

Here's a bit of housing bubble humor for anyone who might be having trouble selling their house (courtesy of The Onion):

"For the third straight month, sales on preexisting homes dropped, leading realtors to call it a 'buyer's market.' Here are some strategies sellers are using to entice buyers:

* Dropping price by 50 bucks
* Carrying around wad of money; acting like owning this house got them that money
* Pointing out dishwasher several times
* Explaining to potential buyers how fulfilling it is to make mortgage payment on time
* Telling long, touching story about how grandmother needs $312,500 for kidney operation
* Letting third blouse button go
* Drowning out sound of noisy furnace with soulful vocals of Michael McDonald
* Reassuring buyers that people purchase things they can't afford all the time"

Related Posts:
How NOT to Beat the Housing Bubble
How to Beat the Bursting Housing Bubble
Real Estate Dictionary
Housing Bubble Humor

Labels: Housing Bubble, Humor, Real Estate

Many people want to remodel their kitchen, but not always for the right reasons. Most want "the look." The look of granite countertops, the look of cherry cabinets, the look of natural stone tile floors.

When you're talking with your Kitchen Designer or Remodeling professional, make sure you also plan for the functionality of your new space. Make sure you explain exactly how you want your kitchen to work for you. Even if you're not a master chef, you can plan for how you will best use the room.

A kitchen remodel can do more than make the room pretty. It can create the correct workflow (the Kitchen Work Triangle), add storage, increase access to needed appliances, add appliances you don't currently have, and add more room for your family or for entertaining.

The work triangle is key for just about any job in the kitchen because it cuts down on your movement and saves you time. It's basically the triangle for the sink, to the fridge, to the stovetop. The basic rules are:

• The triangle should measure less than twenty-five feet and be no smaller than ten feet.
• There should be no island, appliance, or cabinet that interrupts the triangle flow.
  
• The triangle does not need equal length sides but no side should be longer than ten feet or shorter than five feet.

Adding an "appliance garage" is a great new way to increase the amount of appliances you have access to while preparing food. Most have to store their blenders, mixers, and juicers way down low or way up high -- the garage gives you improved storage space at your level.

So many people are still trudging along without a dishwasher. Your kitchen remodel can allow you to add this (especially the hot trend of the heavily-insulated, whisper-quiet models) and a whole lot more. Many are adding two dishwashers, wine cooler/storage, drawer microwaves, trash compactors and the still red-hot trend in kitchen remodeling is the stainless steel surface. Matching appliances can really improve the look (Sorry, I forgot - we're talking about function...)

Do you know what room is sitting silent in most homes? The formal dining room. Many want to have their families close by while they're preparing food. Many are remodeling the kitchen to add eating areas, like a dining bar on the kitchen island or banquette seating. It's great for entertaining because the guests and host won't need to be separated during meal prep.

Not everyone has the room for a lot of these remodeling changes. Usually it means expanding into the house and losing the functionality of that room (invading space in closets, family rooms, even dining rooms.) If the lot allows, there has been a persistent trend in kitchen additions - expanding the size of the room out into the yard.

So, make sure you do more than talk about the surface materials, the hardware, and the colors with your kitchen designer - talk about what you want your kitchen to allow you to do. Talk about how you plan to use it. Talk about how you want to improve your life and save your time.

Just to pat our own backs, I wanted to post this comment from one of the homeowners who recently used our site to find a contractor:

"Hello.

I just wanted to tell you how impressed I am with the number of contractors your Website brought in to bid my job! I'm certain that one or another will work out just fine. The process was a lot more convenient than my usual tactic of calling everyone in the Yellow Pages. I'll use you again next opportunity-- and will share your URL with everyone I know who is interested in a construction project.

Thank you very much.

Elliot L"

Thank you, Elliot -- not everyone takes time out of their busy day to let you know you're doing something right and I appreciate and value your time and effort! I try not to use this blog as a selling tool for our site, but instead use it to help inform homeowners about the world of home improvement. But that email was a really great way to start my Friday morning and I had to share. It's great to know you're helping people get what they want.

So, you found a Home Addition Contractor on ConstructionDeal.com and you added a master bedroom and new master bath to your house. The question is -- did you notify your insurance company?

The folks over at the INSWEB.com recommend that you reevaluate your insurance coverage -- just after you have remodeled or upgraded your home -- before disaster strikes.

"Home remodeling quickly adds to a houses value, but many homeowners fail to increase their homeowners insurance coverage accordingly. It is not until a disaster strikes that many homeowners realize that they haven't reevaluated their coverage to include any work done on the house. After already undergoing the tragedy of losing your home, you don't want to also find out that your insurance policy only covers what your house used to be rather than what you have made it into. Imagine that you renovated a small one bedroom fixer-upper into a modern 3 bedroom home with a new yard or deck - the difference in replacement value would be considerable."

And it's not just if you've remodeled. If you have upgraded any safety functions in your home since you started your policy, let your insurer know because it may mean additional discounts for you. If you have a fire sprinkler system installed, smoke detectors, CO2 detectors, fire extinguishers, or even home automation or home security features, you could save a lot of money on your homeowners insurance policy.

They have some other great tips on insurance for homeowners, so check it out -- and tell them ConstructionDeal.com sent you!

Have you a got a room in your home that is too dark, not matter how you paint it or which window treatment you use? You might consider a skylight. Want to cut down on a portion of your energy bill? Bring in more natural (i.e. FREE) light and increase natural airflow with a skylight. Looking for that extra something in your already-perfect bathroom? You guessed it... a skylight.

Skylights have come a long way. They used to be known as annoying contraptions that let too much rainwater in and too much heat or air conditioning out. They come in multiple design options and some have Energy Star ratings. Skylights can be the traditional flat model or they can be raised in tubular shapes (circles, pyramids, triangles, and more.) They can be fixed (meaning they stay permanently closed) or they can be opened electrically or manually.

If you're interested in skylights, I like the Velux brand of skylights. Their skylight options have been recommended to me by many designers and contractors. Their windows have a variety of glazings that prevent heat loss, condensation, and fading. The skylights come with double-pane glass with an interior filled with Argon gas, with a double Low-E coating. One model can even electronically dim the window surface. They do not rely solely on caulk to prevent leaking, with gaskets that can drain excess water away.

It's important to make sure you don't get too large of a skylight for a room. Many feel that bigger can be better, but you might end up letting in too much light or losing some energy efficiency with a giant skylight. Work out a plan with your contractor for the best options for each room you plan on installing skylights.



(ConstructionDeal.com has in no way been paid for any endorsements on this blog - the author is providing an opinion of available products. If you have any products that you recommend, you can email information to blog@constructiondeal.com)

How would you like to have your next home delivered to your new address? No, I'm not talking about having a double-wide mobile home shipped to the site. I'm talking about the latest in affordable, well designed, and factory built prefab modular homes. And there is a difference.

The great thing about these prefab modulars? They are not bare-bones shacks that have been nailed together - they are luxurious, modern, and "green" houses that are manufactured in the factories and shipped to a lot for assembly. And they're gaining popularity away from the colder climates where building seasons are short - they're big across the country.

Much lip-service in the media has been given to "green building" and "sustainability," with our rising energy costs providing the impetus. But most new home builders do not consider themselves up to speed with the whole green building movement. But all the doom-and-gloom reports, documentaries, TV shows, and more have all made us painfully aware that there is a problem -- and that we're the cause of it.

The great thing about these modular homes is that designers are making these modular homes with materials and systems that are energy-efficient, non-toxic, and made with recycled products. The bonus is that these homes can be sleek, modern, and filled with all the same luxury appliances and surfaces as a site-built home. But you can save time and money: modular homes can be completed in less than half the time of a site-built home, for about 25% less. Many modular builders are LEED certified, meaning the homes are high quality, energy-efficient, and very sustainable.

And the prefab modular home wave is not just for a single-family urban residences. People are installing these homes in the suburbs and in rural areas. Multi-family apartment and condo modular communities are being set up everywhere. And there are commercial applications that are being utilized to same time, money, and resources. While they have standard floorplans, most manufactures also do custom design work, as well.

How are they "green"? The homes usually use insulated panels and glass, recyled wood and steel, and are designed to maximize natural light to cut down on energy costs. Air flow is also part of the design to make sure the air conditioner is not always used. Solar panels options are almost always available. Many include state-of-the-art energy efficient appliances. And think about this - you'll even be cutting down on fossil fuel emmisions! You won't have teams of subcontractors coming to your house everyday for all the installation work - the house is practically delivered complete!

So, if you're building a new house on your lot... consider a prefab modular. Consider how much you'll save in both time and money. And... consider the Earth.

For more information, check out: Michelle Kaufmann Designs, a group of architects and designers focused on well-designed buildings that are also sustainable, energy-efficient, and luxurious. To find a Modular Home Builder, in your area, you can post your request on our network.

No matter what you do to the front of your house, nothing will make a more dramatic change than to update your front door. It's the focal point to any home and the first place anyone looks when they begin their subtle evaluation of your home's curb appeal.

Sun, wind, and moisture have probably done a number on your front door. If you're in the market to replace it, consider a fiberglass door over a natural wood one. They're more efficient than a wood or steel door but they have the same natural wood grain look. They come in a variety of styles, they're paintable or stainable, and can really control the heat and cold exchange in and out of your home. They're not "maintenance free" but they're not subject to warping or shrinkage like wood doors. Paints will stay on the surface for a much longer period. They're better in high moisture climates than steel doors because they won't rust or oxidize.

Fiberglass doors are made up of a molded surface, with wood stiles inside, and a polyurethane-foam insulation filling in the gaps. They can come pre-painted or pre-stained from the manufacturer, but there are also unfinished versions that can be done by you - you can stain them to match cherry, walnut, oak, or other colors of wood grain. Even up close, it can be hard to tell it's not made of wood.

You can buy the door only, or you can purchase the entire kit, that includes the frame, hardware and door handles. To get the maximum energy savings, I would suggest the entire kit. Your old door "moved and grew" with your home, but a new door might not be as level or plumb and you'll be fighting gaps between the door and frame.

They're affordable options that have really long warranties, so check out fiberglass doors the next time you want to really bump up your curb appeal quotient (and save a few bones on that energy bill.) Click here to find a local door installation pro.