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Construction Deal Update

Helping Homeowners navigate the world of Home Improvement

Installing Holiday Lights on Your House

Wednesday, November 29, 2006

It's that time of year - time to install lights inside and outside your home. Nothing puts you and your neighbors in the holiday spirit like a vibrant and colorful display. But, this time of year also means an huge increase in home fires -- many being caused by a host of electrical fires stemming for holiday decorations.

I wanted to pass along some tips to make sure you, your family, and your house remains safe.

Electrical Tips
  • Make sure all your outlets have no cracks and you shouldn't have to force a plug into any socket. If the socket is loose, this can cause problems from shocks or fire.
  • Your outlets can handle about 15 to 20 amps - don't plug in every light string or decoration into one outlet. Mix it up and move cords to other outlets. 25 Christmas light bulbs are 1.135 amps. 50 lights are 2.270. An 18 amp outlet can handle about 380 normal (C7) lights. Add more than that and you could have a fire hazard. 300 mini lights is usually 1 amp.
  • Check all your cords for frays, splits, or damage. Don't use them if they're damaged. Don't tape them up and hope for the best. And don't run extension cords under carpeting or rugs. Try not to use extension cords that are still rolled up - either use a shorter cord or extend it out completely.
  • For outdoor lights, use an extension cord rated for the outdoors.
  • Never remove a 3rd pin in a cord to make it fit into a 2 pin socket. That's a recipe for disaster.
  • Keep lights away from electrical & gas heaters, fireplaces, candles, or other heat sources.

Hanging Your Lights
  • Don't hang holiday lights on sharp hooks - don't pound nails or hooks in through the light cords. Avoid stapling around or on the cords.
  • Do not run cords through doors and windows and close them on the light cords - crimping the cords is a fire hazard.
  • Make sure the lights are unplugged BEFORE you try to replace any burned out bulbs
  • Many accidents occur when people are climbing on ladders up their roofs - make sure someone holds your ladder when you're on it, don't climb to to the top two steps (get a taller ladder), don't put your ladder in mud or loose dirt, and don't lean your ladder against doors or windows
  • Replace burnt out bulbs promptly - make sure the replacements are the same wattage
  • Make sure the lights you use outdoors are also rated as outdoor lights - you've got crazy weather across the country in the month of December and you don't want indoor lights out in the elements.
  • All outdoor lights need to be plugged into a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). There are portable ones that you can buy at a hardware store, or you can have them permanently installed by an electrician.
  • Make sure your holiday lights are off while you sleep or away from the house. You can use a timer so that they turn off the same time each day and night.
Good luck with your lighting displays. If you don't feel comfortable installing your lights - feel free to find a local Handyman to install them for you. Post your lighting project for free on our main site and we'll match you to a quality handyman in your area. If you think you need an electrician, click here.

posted by ConstructionDeal.com, 7:39 PM | link | 0 comments |

Remodeling Trends: Wrought Iron Elegance

Monday, November 27, 2006

Many homeowners are remodeling to return their home to its former glory. Homes that were originally built with a Tuscan, French, or Spanish design are being revitalized to match that historic past. Old world elegance and charm is the latest trend whether homeowners are restoring a Craftsman house or an old farmhouse. The idea is to bring in all the correct flooring, stucco, tile roofs, and iron accessories. It increases the home value and really makes a unique statement in any neighborhood.

Many are choosing to add back the architectural details of handcrafted wrought iron. Whether they add a balcony, gate, stair railing, or fence, these iron accessories bring a rustic and warm feeling to the house. They are the final touch to add to the remodel to go along with the old wood beams, the rustic cabinets, and the natural stone floors. Wrought iron and aged wood go great together and make a complete package that homeowners love.

Adding wrought iron accessories to your remodeling plans can have its disadvantages. Wrought iron can be expensive, especially if you're having custom work done. Iron can be high maintenance because it can rust when exposed to the elements. And wrought iron is not always practical for gates or fencing if you're looking for privacy. But there are ways around everything with technology today. They can be galvanized, painted, and finished to be protected and still provide the perfect accents.

Many people forget about any wrought iron additions when planning their remodeling project because it can so easily blend in with the look and feel of the rest of the updates. Wrought iron staircases, railings, gates, and even furniture are functional, aesthetically pleasing, durable remodeling options and can be customized and hand-crafted to fit your needs.

posted by ConstructionDeal.com, 1:10 PM | link | 0 comments |

The Decorative Concrete Overlay Process

Monday, November 20, 2006

Here's a Before and After account of a Concrete Overlay project from our friends at Stained By Design, the concrete specialists, down in Louisiana:

"Recently, Stained By Design was contacted by a homeowner to stain three bedrooms and a hallway in an existing home. The rooms all were previously covered with carpet. One of the bedrooms had a very rough finish on the concrete and a low spot of 1/4 inch about the size of a Stop Sign. This room would not look very good if stained in that condition. Plus, the 10 year old Princess who lived in the room wanted a castle floor in Purple and Coral - Princesses can be demanding that way. Since those colors are out of the range of traditional Acid Stains, a Concrete Overlay was the way to go.

The concrete was cleaned and a Skim coat (seen as White in the picture) was applied to bond to the existing surface. The next day a wet bond coat was applied in advance of 1/4" of Texture Pave which was used to re-level the surface. A screed was used over the low spot so the floor would end up flat and even.

Very little of this re-level coat will be seen in the finished product. It was mixed in gray so when the grout lines are scored, they will be dark. This coat had to dry overnight.

The next two days were spent doing the color coats, scoring the pattern and sanding for a smooth surface. As a final touch, Pink, Purple and Silver glitter was sprinkled on the floor before the sealer was applied. While not seen in the completed picture, the glitter sparkles quite a bit as you walk over the area.

The Princess was very happy.

Joe Welch
(337) 316-4505
www.stainedbydesign.com
Art you can walk on"

If you don't live in Louisiana and would like to find a concrete overlay pro in your area, you can post your request on the Construction Deal website. It's a free way to find a professional in your area -- they contact you so it also saves you time!

RELATED ARTICLES:
Acid Stained Concrete Flooring 101
Acid Stained Concrete - Exterior Care
More on Acid Stained Concrete Floors

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posted by ConstructionDeal.com, 9:56 AM | link | 0 comments |

Travertine Tiles

Sunday, November 19, 2006

Have you been considering travertine as a remodeling option? If not, you might want to put it on your list. It's been used for thousands of years but not many people are as familiar with it as they should be. Travertine is in the marble family and it's incredibly durable -- in fact, the Coliseum in Rome has travertine as part of its building materials.

It's great for use in flooring and as a wall tile. It has a hard, smooth finish with a porous surface. It's so durable it can be used not only in residential indoor settings but is perfect for commercial applications and even outdoor use. Travertine has an old world look caused by creamy color in all the pores on the surface. The pores are caused by gases escaping as the travertine is formed in underground springs and rivers (usually in and around Italy and Turkey.)

Many have been using travertine as a complete flooring system in living spaces, such as family rooms, kitchens, bathrooms, and even as outdoor patios. It's also being used as tiles for bathroom walls and showers. It can also be applied as a kitchen backsplash.

Keep in mind that, like most natural stones, it requires an aggregate sealer to protect against stains and spillage. Also, there can be big color variances for you batch because of the varying degree of mineral deposits in the stone material. And travertine is not inexpensive. Finally, travertine can scratch easily. Despite these disadvantages, it's a very rich and beautiful tile material that will last a very long time in your bathroom or kitchen... and it could even increase your homes value.

If you're going to go with travertine tiles in your home, do not use polished travertine on the floors. Using honed travertine is the best option to avoid scratches. And, the polished material would be too slippery for areas of heavy traffic.

To save time, post your travertine project with us. You'll get calls directly from tile installers instead of calling someone at random from the yellow pages. And, as always, it's free to find a local travertine tile company when you're ready to remodel your kitchen or bathroom.

posted by ConstructionDeal.com, 4:07 PM | link | 0 comments |

Decorative Concrete Overlays

Wednesday, November 15, 2006

Our friends at Stained by Design have sent along some more great information on concrete. We've have several quality posts on acid stained concrete and this one covers information on decorative concrete overlays. Overlays are a way to cover up a current interior or exterior concrete application. If you are a Do-It-Yourselfer, here are some application guidelines. If you prefer to have a concrete company do the work, use this info as a guide to make sure they're doing it right. Joe's the expert in our book and anything he says goes:

"Decorative Concrete, or Architectural Concrete, as it is also called, is a way to put a new face on existing concrete. The existing concrete may be pitted, aggregate-exposed or have a mix of both a smooth and rough finish. Several new thin layers of a specially modified concrete mixture are applied to the existing concrete to create a new surface. As the name implies, the finishes are decorative enhancements that add to the architectural beauty of existing concrete, but they are not structural in nature.

Concrete Overlays fall into different categories but share steps in the evolution of the final product. The installation time runs from 3 - 7 days depending on the size of the area, the selected style and complexity of the pattern. There are many manufactures of overlay systems. Some require primers, some call the steps or mix a different name. This is intended to be generic in nature, but I have to call the steps/mix by the name that I use.

The typical steps are as follows:

1. Preparation. This step is common to all applications.

a. The surface is pressure washed or cleaned with a floor prep machine depending on if Exterior or Interior.

b. A mild Acid bath is done and then neutralized. This opens the pores of the concrete and prepares it to bond with the next application. (An Acid Bath is NOT done for staining a Concrete Slab). For those interested in staining concrete slabs, please see the archives sections for previous posts about acid stained concrete.

The following steps only apply to concrete overlays.

2. A Skim Coat (also called a Base, Bond or Scratch coat.) This step is common to all overlay applications:

a. Cracks in the surface are treated if needed.

b. A Skim or Scratch/Base coat is applied to the surface and allowed to dry.

*** The steps below are by style. Depending on the complexity of your desired surface, modifications may be made.

3. Texture Applications: There are several styles that fit this category (a Knock-Down finish is in this category.)

a. Basic Spray Texture would have an additional Base Coat added before the Top Coat is Sprayed on. I feel the additional base coat is needed to give strength to the final product. After the second Base Coat, the Top Coat is sprayed over a Stencil, Tape or a Seamless pattern.

b. Flagstone coatings also receive two Base Coats for the same reason above. The next step is to apply a 1/2" Nylon Tape to the surface to mark off the "rocks/stones."

c. The Flagstone pattern is then coated with the Top Coat and after a dry time, misted with additional colors.

d. The tape is then pulled off to reveal the pattern and the surface is then sealed.

4. Faux Slate/Tile Applications:

a. The Top Coat material is mixed and applied with a pool trowel to achieve a look that resembles a light Slate Texture or a swirl-type texture found on some tiles.

b. After drying overnight, the desired pattern is marked and scored.

c. Stain is applied to the surface in several coats to achieve the desired color, tint and tone.

d. After an overnight dry, the surface is sealed.

e. NOTE: This texture may also be referred to as a "Knock-Down" when it is done to resemble Cool Deck.

f. There are other variations of this style that can create a personalized tile unique to your home.

5. Micro-Finish Overlay:

a. The most common use of Micro-Finish is to overlay a slab that would not react well to acid stain. The final result is a surface that actually achieves a higher degree of mottling and tone than concrete.

b. A Micro-Finish job will get a second Base Coat.

c. Two applications of Micro-Finish are applied with a pool trowel. This process fills in the small voids in the surface and results in a smooth even surface.

d. The floor is machine-sanded to further smooth the surface and remove any trowel marks.

e. The pattern is scored and the surface is stained in the desired color. After the stain works for about 4 hours, it is neutralized and rinsed.

f. Once the surface is dry it is sealed.

6. Thin-Stamped Overlay:

a. Texture Pave is the ultimate top-coat that is applied to the surface and accepts the stamp pattern.

b. A "Wet Bond" coat is put down in advance of the Texture Pave.

c. The Texture Pave is spread out with a Gauge Rake to ensure a consistent application.

d. After the surface has set up enough, it is stamped with the Texture Skin.

e. The Texture Skin makes the Slate pattern in the surface.

f. After the Stamp, the material will dry over night.

g. The pattern is then scored and stained in the desired color.

h. Once the surface is dry it is sealed.

7. Sealer Options:

There are several sealers available and the choice of sealer should be determined by environment and use. Some of the overlay styles/staining required longer dry times than others. Most surfaces can be sealed the day after staining.

a. CSS. This is the Primary sealer for Exterior applications. CSS is a 53% solids, UV inhibiting sealer. It penetrates the surface and prevents mold and mildew from getting a foot-hold on the surface.

b. AUS-G: This is a Aliphatic Urethane sealer. It is UV stable and offers higher abrasion resistance. It requires a longer cure time.

c. Clear Epoxy: This is the best sealer for Industrial use. It cures up to over 14,000 PSI and is odorless. However, it requires the longest cure time and does scratch easily. It is often selected to support forklift traffic. I can be used in a residential application, but should be top coated with AUS-G for better wear.

d. Colored Epoxy: Colored Epoxy comes in 10 colors and is the best coating for areas such as loading docks where high wear and heavy weight is the primary concern.

e. Wax: All interior applications should receive coats of a commercial quality liquid wax. This wax is applied with a looped-end Rayon mop. The purpose of the wax is to provide a sacrificial coat to absorb the scuff marks and prolong the sealers life. An analogy for wax is to think about a car. The car color (the stain on the concrete) is covered with Clear Coat (the sealer) and car wax protects the clear coat. So long as you keep up with the wax, you won't have to have your car painted or your floor resealed."

To find out more about Architectural and Decorative Concrete Overlays, visit Joe's site. You can also call Joe if you're near Louisiana at (337) 316 - 4505. If you need to find a decorative concrete specialist in your area, you can post your project for free with Construction Deal.

RELATED ARTICLES
Acid Stained Concrete Flooring 101
Acid Stained Concrete Flooring
More on Acid Stained Concrete - Exterior Care

posted by ConstructionDeal.com, 3:42 PM | link | 0 comments |

Bamboo Countertops? Yes, Bamboo Countertops...

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

Bamboo has been huge in flooring lately. Well, now there is a bamboo option for countertops. Can't imagine using wood on your kitchen counters? There's a company close by in North Hollywood, California, called Totally Bamboo that carries many bamboo products -- but they've also developed a bamboo counter application.

According to their site, "Ready for contractor installation, Totally Bamboo brand countertop sheets are constructed with cross-band laminates that we call Multilam(TM) (patent pending). In early testing, we discovered that this is the ideal way to glue bamboo. This method keeps the sheet both flat and true, as well as lessens the tendency to twist or warp."

The other great reason to use this for your next countertop, besides the fact that bamboo is a more renewable resource than wood -- it uses a Formaldehyde Free Adhesive. In 2004, the World Health Organization re-designated formaldehyde-based glue as a proven human carcinogen. The company has several styles and several sizes as well as a choice in thickness.

If you're going for a totally unique look for your countertops and kitchen islands, bamboo is an amazing choice to make your new kitchen the talk of the neighborhood.

And if you decide to order your bamboo countertop from the company, you'll need to find a countertop contractor to install it for you. Construction Deal has a full network of countertop contractors and we'll find someone in your area to install this beautiful and unique product!

RELATED ARTICLES:
Considering a Stainless Steel Countertop?
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Latest Trend in Flooring: Bamboo

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posted by ConstructionDeal.com, 11:22 AM | link | 0 comments |

Home Theater Installations

Friday, November 03, 2006

You're finally ready to buy an HDTV system and set up a home theater? Well, before you run off to Costco or Sam's Club to buy a new plasma TV, you might want to plan out what you want from your setup.

I would suggest talking with a home theater specialist. The kid with the braces at the local Circuit City is nice and all, but he's no expert. And you're making what will amount to a very large investment in your home theatre system -- so you're going to want to get it right.

A home theater installer has a lot of knowledge and expertise to be able to evaluate your needs to give you what you want. You can schedule a consultant to come to your house and talk about your plans and expectations, review your room size, the viewing distance, and your budget. Then he or she can let you know what the best equipment for you will be. No guessing, no problems, no returns.

Here is what you need to think about before your home theater installation consultant shows up:
  • What type of TV do you want? HDTV, of course. But do you want LCD, DLP, Plasma? Do you want rear projection, flat screen, front projection? Of course, these are some things the consultant will be able to help you with. For example, a brightly lit room is not the perfect fit for a front projection TV.
  • Where do you want your Speakers? You have options - you can set them on speaker stands, mount them on the wall, or even hide them in the walls. Also, what are your plans for the wires? Taping them down... Not a good idea. Under the carpet? Mmm. No. You might need to run wiring through walls or ceiling. You might be able to go wireless, as well.
  • Where will the television go? Will you have a flat screen hanging on the wall? Will the projection TV sit on a console or a piece of furniture? One big trend are flat screens that can rise up and drop down - very stylish but can be very expensive setups.
  • Think about your equipment location - if you put the receiver, DVD player, DVR system and others into a cabinet or other furniture, you will be limiting your access to it. Do you have a separate room for a/v access, like a spare closet, to house everything?
  • Plan for Lighting: you'll want more than just great equipment. You need to be able to set the home theater mood with dimmable lighting options. Just turning off all the lights is not a great option for watching high-def television because it can cause eye strain.
  • Also, consider the room usage when it's not your home theater. If you don't have a room completely dedicated for home theater use, you'll need to plan how all your new equipment will fit in the room.
Before talking with a consultant, draw up a plan of your room and play around with the possibilities. Plan for furniture placement, TV location, power outlet availability, lighting, and window treatment options. Doing a little research and hard work before you buy can make sure you're totally satisfied with your high definition entertainment system.

If you need to find a local home theater installation pro, post your request on our website and receive multiple bids from several experts - this can save you tons of time and a better bid can save you money. The kid with the braces at Circuit City will understand...

RELATED ARTICLES:
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posted by ConstructionDeal.com, 12:36 PM | link | 0 comments |

Housing Bubble Humor - Real Estate Dictionary

From the folks at Washington State University, in the Department of Mathematics of all places, has a listing of real estate terminology. I thought with the current state of the housing market, it might be time to inject a little humor into the situation:

"It took me a considerable amount of time to learn the true meaning of phrases used in real estate ads. I offer the following dictionary for the benefit of those who search for a house and want to save their precious time.
  • Old charmer - an old and ugly house
  • Stunning house - the house is not ugly
  • Tudor - two bedrooms are in the attic which is not insulated; very hot in summer and very cold in winter
  • Cape Cod - styled after Third World slum dwellings
  • Sunny corner lot - noisy intersection of two busy streets
  • Easy freeway access - noisy arterial street close to freeway
  • Low maintenance lot - no yard; the kids will have to play in the street
  • Meticulously maintained in the original condition - the appliances are 50 years old
  • Ready to remodel - the house is about to collapse; you will have to invest twice the asking price in remodel before you can move in
  • Newly remodeled kitchen - 50-year old cabinetry and faucets have been replaced with cheap modern equivalents
  • Ready to move in - the interior has been painted with one coat of cheap paint
  • Desirable neighborhood - this little house is extravagantly overpriced because the neighborhood has a snobbish reputation
  • 1 car garage - you can drive your Ford Escort into the garage but there is no room to open the door
  • In-city living - it is not safe to walk in this neighborhood after dark
  • Recreation room with wet bar - basement has been painted and has a faucet
  • Large family room - large basement
  • Bedroom in basement - basement has a 1' by 2' window
  • Lots of storage space - basement too small to be called a family room
  • Partial mountain view - you can see the tip of Mt. Olympus if you climb the roof
  • Territorial view - good view of your neighbor's bedroom window
  • Build sweat equity - the house is not inhabitable
  • Storybook - the house is old and the roof is not flat
  • Efficiently designed kitchen - the kitchen is too small to fit two people at the same time"
Related Posts:
Housing Bubble Humor
How NOT to Beat the Housing Bubble
How to Beat the Bursting Housing Bubble



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posted by ConstructionDeal.com, 11:42 AM | link | 1 comments |

Home Decoration: a Portable Fireplace?

Wednesday, November 01, 2006

Humans have been fascinated by fire since the dawn of our existence. But, for many, having fire in their home or apartment may not be a practical option. Many long for the warmth and comfort of a fireplace or they're looking for the perfect decorative touch that is the talk of the party.

I've found a company in South Africa that gives you a portable option for having a fire in your home. It's considerably safer than a standard fireplace and lantern because it's not burning wood, propane, or kerosene. The company is called BioFires and it makes two main products, GlassFires and BioFireplaces, that don't require any chimney installation and don't release harmful gases.

The products use BioFuel, which is made from potatoes, wheat, or sugarcane (in S.A. only), to burn a real flame. It's has a renewable source of energy and it only releases small amounts of Carbon Dioxide and steam as a byproduct. Because of the CO2, you need to have it in a well-ventilated area or have a window cracked open.

The GlassFires produce no heat on the bottom of the glass, so each design can be put on a table or floor or counter and not cause any damage to the surface. The BioFireplaces can be placed in a bedroom, apartment, or any place you'd love to have a fireplace. And, best of all, you can take it with you when you move!

The only problem I've found is that there do not appear to be any distributors in the U.S. However, they do ship overseas and you can also order their BioFuel from the as well. However, if you're still longing to have a traditional fireplace installed in your home, you could find a local masonry company - free - through Construction Deal.

posted by ConstructionDeal.com, 9:39 AM | link | 1 comments |


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