ConstructionDeal.com Update

Guess what today is?!

Okay, so you read my title already... But it's not what you think. I swear! Today is Vampire Awareness Day - this is true. What's not true is that it's Vampire Awareness Day because Halloween and Trick or Treating is upon us.

We're talking about a different kind of vampire. The kind that doesn't suck the blood from your neck, but the money from your wallet.

No, it's not a day to call attention to your ex-wife... although, that would be funny.

The folks over at Best Buy have declared an awareness of energy vampires to help save you cash on your utility bills.

What is Vampire Power?

• Vampire Power is the electricity that consumer electronics and appliances use while they are switched off or in a standby mode.
• It is responsible for wasting an estimated $4 billion in the U.S. annually and the Department of Energy notes that this figure could rise by 20 percent by 2010.

How Does Vampire Power Affect Me?

• The average American home has approximately 20 to 40 electronics devices plugged in that abuse vampire power.
• These appliances can cost you close to $1,000 in electricity costs per year at current rates (more in the future if energy costs continue to climb). Even when they're not on.

A Stake in the Heart Won't Work - How Can Reduce Energy Bloodletting?

• Use a power strip so multiple devices can be switched off at the same time
• Unplug your chargers from the wall when they are not in use

Just because your stereo is off or your computer is "sleeping", it doesn't mean that it's not draining power. When you see that little red light on, it means it's sucking money from your purse. And that's not cool.

Go to the Vampire Awareness Day page (.pdf) to read a Fact Sheet with more details and what you can do to help.

Killing the vampires in your house is a great way to save money, save energy, reduce CO2 emissions into the atmosphere, and help save the planet.

It's the green thing to do. And keeping a little money in your checking account is nice, too.

Also, if you need to do an Energy Audit of your home, ConstructionDeal.com can help. We'll match you with a local Energy Auditor to review your home and determine if your home is wasting even more energy and money.

It's a fast and easy process - simply submit your request and get up to 4 quotes from Home Energy Auditors in a matter of hours. At not cost.

Labels: Energy Efficiency, Saving Money

If you have a remodeling project coming up, there are a few things you need to consider when it comes to signing a contract with your general contractor. Without these things, you could be in for a nightmare project from hell.

Identify All Involved and the Job Location:
Clearly list every party involved in the renovation. Include info on the owner(s) of the property, the general contractor, and be specific as possible. Include names, addresses, phone numbers, email addresses. Don't forget to the list the info on the job site - if it's a house, list the address and include the county, state, zip code, and even subdivision name.

Describe the Project:
Whatever your remodeling project involves, put it in the contract. If you are renovating your kitchen, make sure there is a full description of all the work that will take place. Include the kitchen sink!

Draw a diagram of the room, include the placement of new cabinets, appliances, plumbing fixtures and electrical outlets. Describe the types of materials you want: granite counters, cherry cabinets, and a hardwood floor. List the dimensions of the room, take some "Before" pictures. The more details that are in your contract, the happier you will be. Even include whether or not you or the contractor will provide the new handles for the cabinets - - believe it or not, a problem could arise if you don't.

Who Gets Paid & When?
This is vital to any contract. Make sure you specify the payment plan for the project. 10% down, 20% when the project starts, etc. Include dates, exact amounts, written estimates, and who will be paying any subcontractors. Don't ever pay with cash, but list how payments will be made and who will be signing the checks.

Start and End Dates:
List the planned start date in the contract. You'd be surprised but not having it could mean significant delays. Having the start date gives you control in case the contractor becomes ill or is injured. When it's in the contract, they may not be able to perform the work but could hire someone else to do it. Naturally, weather and natural disasters are covered under force majeure clauses. The end date is important to have in there, too. Even though problems and delays nearly always arise when it comes to a major renovation project, there can be clauses in the contract for when a contractor misses a major milestone. Those clauses can ask for recovery of damages for severe delays from bad management of a project. It usually never comes to that, but those clauses can make sure a project gets done in a timely fashion.

Include Warranties
No completed project is ever perfect. Don't expect it. But do expect quality work to be done when and where possible. Make sure that there is a guarantee for at least a full year that products and materials won't fail and that the work done will hold up to normal "wear and tear."

Include Insurance Details:
List in the contract whether you or the contractor is responsible for liability insurance, workers' comp, or any completion bonds. Put in the names and contact details of all insurance companies involved. Make sure all the forms required are included with the contract. If you're not sure, call the insurance company yourself - don't just take the contractor's word on it.

Keep the Cooling Off Period in There:
Under normal circumstances, you have the right to cancel any contract you've signed. Don't sign a contract unless it has this clause. This allows you a certain number of days to think about and cancel the contract. Don't take anyone's word on it that it's state law and you'll be covered. Put it in the contract.

Waste Disposal and Hazardous Materials
Include details on who will be responsible for the removal of trash, debris, and dust on the job site. Also, include who will be the party responsible for removal and disposal of any hazardous waste found on the site (including mold, asbestos, lead, and other dangerous materials.) If it's not in the contract, it could be your responsibility to take care of it (and that could be expensive.)

Gone are the days of a handshake and a smile over a cup of coffee. To make sure you have a happy and successful remodel, put it all in your contract. You can never have enough information, enough detail, or enough papers. Remember - the one with the most paperwork usually wins every court case! If you're not sure, consult an attorney. If you don't get what you want in your contract, don't be afraid to walk away.

Need to find a contractor in your area for your remodeling project?

We can help.

At ConstructionDeal.com, we match contractors with homeowners who have renovation projects. It's a fast and easy way to find service pros. Simply submit your project and get calls from local contractors.

At no cost.

Labels: Contracts, Remodeling Contracts

After I discussed How to Install Bamboo Flooring, I realized I probably shouldn't leave you hanging on how to install your baseboards.

If you install bamboo, or just about any hardwood flooring, you'll more than likely need to install new baseboards. If you were able to carefully remove your original baseboards and they're in relatively good shape, you're lucky... it doesn't happen very often.

Baseboards need to be replaced when you go from carpet to hardwoods. Or when you go from a thick or thin hardwood to different size. The new flooring is going to go close to the wall and those old baseboards might be in the way (or too high up.)

What You'll Need:

• New baseboards, of course. Measure out the length of each wall and add those up. That will be the amount of linear feet you'll need to buy. Having some extra is always a good idea, in case you have problems or issues with length.
• Finishing nails. Depending on how thick your baseboards are, and how thick your drywall is, you'll most likely need nails that are 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches long. For my baseboards that I used with the bamboo flooring, the recommended length was 2 inches.
  
• Stud finder
• Mitre Saw
  
• Hammer
• Nail set
• Wood filler
• Sandpaper
• Paint

How to Install Baseboards
I purchased a primed fiberboard base for my room. You can buy un-primed wood or fiberboard and prime it yourself, as well. I recommend that you paint (or prime and paint) the baseboards before you install them. It's easier to do and means less of a chance that you'll accidentally paint your new floors or walls.

Measure your first wall. I started on the wall with the door entrance. I left one side at a 90 degree angle and this would butt up against the molding on the door. Measure out the entire length of that wall where it stops in a corner. At this corner, you'll want to use the mitre saw to cut a 45 degree angle.

Use the stud finder to find the wood studs underneath. At each stud, 16 inches apart, pound a finish nail through the baseboard and into the wall. Don't worry about pounding it down flush with the baseboard -- you could damage it.

On the next wall, measure and cut your baseboard. This time, you'll have a 45 degree angle on both ends. Use the stud finder and place your nails. Continue around your room until all your baseboards are installed.

If you get to a really long wall, longer than your baseboard length, you have two options:

• Cut a 90 degree butt joint and put the two baseboards together on the wall. It's hard to match them up and it may not look good. You'll see that seam in there just about every time.
  
• Cut a 45 degree angle where the bevel faces you. On the opposite baseboard, cut another 45 degree angle where the bevel faces your wall. This is a scarf joint. Those two 45 degree angles should match up to each other. Glue them together with wood glue. You can then put a nail in on both boards to hold them to the wall. A little filler, sanding, and paint and the joint should disappear.

After your boards are on, you may see a gap between the baseboard and the new flooring. It's a good idea to purchase some strips of Quarter Round molding. These pieces can be cut to length for that wall and hammered down with finish nails at a 45 degree angle. Again, try to prime and paint them before you start.

Use your nail set and hammer to pound the finish nails below the surface of the baseboards. Add wood filler to the holes. After the filler has dried (read the directions) you can lightly sand down the excess with sandpaper.

Finally, use your paint to cover up any exposed wood filler or any scratches created during installation. That's all there is to installing new baseboards.

Related Posts:
How to Install Bamboo Floors
Ready to Install Bamboo?

Do you need to install baseboards in your home, but this all sounds too complicated? Consider hiring a professional to do it for you. Our network of flooring pros can install floors and new baseboards for you.

It's easy to find a pro. Submit your request for free to ConstructionDeal.com. It's a fast way to find contractors.

Simply fill out a form and get calls from at least 4 local professionals. There is no cost or obligation. It saves you time - you won't have to call a bunch of people at random from the phone book. They will call you.

Labels: Bamboo Flooring, Baseboards, How To Install

Okay, so your floor prep has been done. Now you're ready to start installing the bamboo floors in your room.

I finished a 13 foot by 10 foot bedroom on Saturday. I did a little work on Friday evening to set everything up, but it's a job that can be completed in one whole day.

How to Install Bamboo Floors - Part Two
Here is a list of items you'll need to install your flooring:

• 15lb. Felt Paper Underlayment
• Bamboo Flooring (naturally...)
• A Floor Stapler
  
• An Air Compressor (to run your floor stapler)
• Flooring Staples (I used 2 inch crown staples for the 5/8" thick bamboo)
• A 10" or 12" mitre saw
• A Rubber Mallet (mine came with the Floor Stapler rental)
• Measuring Tape
• Hammer
• Finishing Nails
• Nail Set
• Chalk Line Set
• Matching Wood Filler

After the bamboo flooring has acclimated to your room for 3 to 7 days, and your subfloor is clean, you can begin installation.

Lay out the felt underlayment paper. Put it in the same direction your bamboo planks will go. Put down one row at a time to make sure you don't tear it up walking back and forth.

Start with the longest wall that is also an outside wall. Those tend to be the straightest walls. Use a chalk line to snap a straight-as-possible line along this wall. Place your first plank along that line, next to the wall. You'll have to nail it down with finishing nails. Try to nail the planks down to the floor joists underneath (you'll see a line of nails along in the subfloor where it was nailed to the joists.)

Note - Make sure you don't put the bamboo boards up tight against the walls. Give yourself a half inch or 5/8 inch gap between the wall and planks to allow for expansion and contraction of the bamboo. Your baseboards will cover the gaps (and if it's not enough, you can add an additional quarter-round to the baseboard.)

Fit your next plank in and nail it down. Continue along your wall until the row is completed. On your next row, stagger the lengths of your planks. You can either make it random or alternate lengths - you just don't want any of your seams to line up. You want the alternating look and you want the added strength.

Because your floor stapler won't fit, you'll have to nail down your first two or three rows. Use your nail set and hammer to hammer down the finish nails until they're below the surface of the bamboo.

Once you have room for the stapler, you can place your planks down and use the rubber mallet to pound the floor stapler to nail in the 2 inch staples. Put in a staple every 6 to 8 inches and not any closer than 2 inches to the edge of the plank. Tap your bamboo planks in with the mallet before a final staple to make sure you're eliminating gaps.

You may need to use a table saw to cut the planks length-wise once you get to the end of the room. It's rare that all the planks will fit in perfectly to every room. You may also need to remove the "tongue" on the planks to be able to drop those thinned boards in next to the wall.
One problem I had - when I first started, my air compressor was set to about 100 psi and it was causing the staples to go in very hard and crack the tongues on the bamboo boards (see pic below.) I backed the pressure down to below 95 psi and the splitting of the tongue stopped. Always test out a spare board before you begin to make sure you don't ruin too many planks.
I purchased matching bamboo T-moldings to transition from the bamboo to the carpet in the hallway. If you're going from bamboo to tile or laminate, you may need a bamboo "reducer" for your transitions. Nail those down with finishing nails and use the nail set to drop them out of sight.

The only thing left is to clean up and install your baseboards. You should prime and paint the baseboards before you nail them to your wall to make it easier (and avoid getting paint on your shiny new bamboo floor!)

RELATED POSTS:
Bamboo Flooring Preparation
Bamboo Countertops

Interested in putting bamboo in your home, but don't want to try it yourself?

You could hire a professional to do the work for you. Need to find a flooring installer? Submit your request for free to ConstructionDeal.com. It's a fast, easy way to find contractors.

Simply fill out a form and you'll get calls from a few local professionals. There is no cost or obligation. And it will save you time - you won't have to call a bunch of people at random from the phone book. They call you.

Labels: Bamboo, Flooring Options, How To Install