ConstructionDeal.com Update

Here's a Before and After account of a Concrete Overlay project from our friends at Stained By Design, the concrete specialists down in Louisiana:

"Recently, Stained By Design was contacted by a homeowner to stain three bedrooms and a hallway in an existing home. The rooms all were previously covered with carpet. One of the bedrooms had a very rough finish on the concrete and a low spot of 1/4 inch about the size of a Stop Sign. This room would not look very good if stained in that condition. Plus, the 10 year old Princess who lived in the room wanted a castle floor in Purple and Coral - Princesses can be demanding that way. Since those colors are out of the range of traditional Acid Stains, a Concrete Overlay was the way to go.

The concrete was cleaned and a Skim coat (seen as White in the picture) was applied to bond to the existing surface. The next day a wet bond coat was applied in advance of 1/4" of Texture Pave which was used to re-level the surface. A screed was used over the low spot so the floor would end up flat and even.

Very little of this re-level coat will be seen in the finished product. It was mixed in gray so when the grout lines are scored, they will be dark. This coat had to dry overnight.

The next two days were spent doing the color coats, scoring the pattern and sanding for a smooth surface. As a final touch, Pink, Purple and Silver glitter was sprinkled on the floor before the sealer was applied. While not seen in the completed picture, the glitter sparkles quite a bit as you walk over the area.

The Princess was very happy."

Joe Welch
(337) 316-4505
www.stainedbydesign.com
Art you can walk on

If you don't live in Louisiana and would like to find a concrete overlay pro in your area, you can post your request on the ConstructionDeal.com site. It's a free way to find a professional in your area -- they contact you so it also saves you time!

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Labels: Concrete Overlays, Decorative Concrete, Stained Concrete

Our friends at Stained by Design have sent along some more great information on concrete. We've have several quality posts on acid stained concrete and this one covers information on decorative concrete overlays.

Overlays are a way to cover up a current interior or exterior concrete application. If you are a Do-It-Yourselfer, here are some application guidelines. If you prefer to have a concrete company do the work, use this info as a guide to make sure they're doing it right. Joe's the expert in our book and anything he says goes:

"Decorative Concrete, or Architectural Concrete, as it is also called, is a way to put a new face on existing concrete. The existing concrete may be pitted, aggregate-exposed or have a mix of both a smooth and rough finish. Several new thin layers of a specially modified concrete mixture are applied to the existing concrete to create a new surface. As the name implies, the finishes are decorative enhancements that add to the architectural beauty of existing concrete, but they are not structural in nature.

Concrete Overlays fall into different categories but share steps in the evolution of the final product. The installation time runs from 3 - 7 days depending on the size of the area, the selected style and complexity of the pattern. There are many manufactures of overlay systems. Some require primers, some call the steps or mix a different name. This is intended to be generic in nature, but I have to call the steps/mix by the name that I use.

The typical steps are as follows:

1. Preparation. This step is common to all applications.

a. The surface is pressure washed or cleaned with a floor prep machine depending on if Exterior or Interior.

b. A mild Acid bath is done and then neutralized. This opens the pores of the concrete and prepares it to bond with the next application. (An Acid Bath is NOT done for staining a Concrete Slab). For those interested in staining concrete slabs, please see the archives sections for previous posts about acid stained concrete.

The following steps only apply to concrete overlays.

2. A Skim Coat (also called a Base, Bond or Scratch coat.) This step is common to all overlay applications:

a. Cracks in the surface are treated if needed.

b. A Skim or Scratch/Base coat is applied to the surface and allowed to dry.

*** The steps below are by style. Depending on the complexity of your desired surface, modifications may be made.

3. Texture Applications: There are several styles that fit this category (a Knock-Down finish is in this category.)

a. Basic Spray Texture would have an additional Base Coat added before the Top Coat is Sprayed on. I feel the additional base coat is needed to give strength to the final product. After the second Base Coat, the Top Coat is sprayed over a Stencil, Tape or a Seamless pattern.

b. Flagstone coatings also receive two Base Coats for the same reason above. The next step is to apply a 1/2" Nylon Tape to the surface to mark off the "rocks/stones."

c. The Flagstone pattern is then coated with the Top Coat and after a dry time, misted with additional colors.

d. The tape is then pulled off to reveal the pattern and the surface is then sealed.

4. Faux Slate/Tile Applications:

a. The Top Coat material is mixed and applied with a pool trowel to achieve a look that resembles a light Slate Texture or a swirl-type texture found on some tiles.

b. After drying overnight, the desired pattern is marked and scored.

c. Stain is applied to the surface in several coats to achieve the desired color, tint and tone.

d. After an overnight dry, the surface is sealed.

e. NOTE: This texture may also be referred to as a "Knock-Down" when it is done to resemble Cool Deck.

f. There are other variations of this style that can create a personalized tile unique to your home.

5. Micro-Finish Overlay:

a. The most common use of Micro-Finish is to overlay a slab that would not react well to acid stain. The final result is a surface that actually achieves a higher degree of mottling and tone than concrete.

b. A Micro-Finish job will get a second Base Coat.

c. Two applications of Micro-Finish are applied with a pool trowel. This process fills in the small voids in the surface and results in a smooth even surface.

d. The floor is machine-sanded to further smooth the surface and remove any trowel marks.

e. The pattern is scored and the surface is stained in the desired color. After the stain works for about 4 hours, it is neutralized and rinsed.

f. Once the surface is dry it is sealed.

6. Thin-Stamped Overlay:

a. Texture Pave is the ultimate top-coat that is applied to the surface and accepts the stamp pattern.

b. A "Wet Bond" coat is put down in advance of the Texture Pave.

c. The Texture Pave is spread out with a Gauge Rake to ensure a consistent application.

d. After the surface has set up enough, it is stamped with the Texture Skin.

e. The Texture Skin makes the Slate pattern in the surface.

f. After the Stamp, the material will dry over night.

g. The pattern is then scored and stained in the desired color.

h. Once the surface is dry it is sealed.

7. Sealer Options:

There are several sealers available and the choice of sealer should be determined by environment and use. Some of the overlay styles/staining required longer dry times than others. Most surfaces can be sealed the day after staining.

a. CSS. This is the Primary sealer for Exterior applications. CSS is a 53% solids, UV inhibiting sealer. It penetrates the surface and prevents mold and mildew from getting a foot-hold on the surface.

b. AUS-G: This is a Aliphatic Urethane sealer. It is UV stable and offers higher abrasion resistance. It requires a longer cure time.

c. Clear Epoxy: This is the best sealer for Industrial use. It cures up to over 14,000 PSI and is odorless. However, it requires the longest cure time and does scratch easily. It is often selected to support forklift traffic. I can be used in a residential application, but should be top coated with AUS-G for better wear.

d. Colored Epoxy: Colored Epoxy comes in 10 colors and is the best coating for areas such as loading docks where high wear and heavy weight is the primary concern.

e. Wax: All interior applications should receive coats of a commercial quality liquid wax. This wax is applied with a looped-end Rayon mop. The purpose of the wax is to provide a sacrificial coat to absorb the scuff marks and prolong the sealers life. An analogy for wax is to think about a car. The car color (the stain on the concrete) is covered with Clear Coat (the sealer) and car wax protects the clear coat. So long as you keep up with the wax, you won't have to have your car painted or your floor resealed."

To find out more about Architectural and Decorative Concrete Overlays, visit Joe's site. You can also call Joe if you're near Louisiana at (337) 316 - 4505. If you need to find a decorative concrete specialist in your area, you can post your project for free with ConstructionDeal.com.

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Labels: Acid Stained Concrete, Decorative Concrete, Stained Concrete

In our continuing coverage of the latest trend in re-surfacing, we've got more information from Joe Welch, at Stained By Design. This time, Joe's got some information about maintaining your exterior acid stained concrete floor covering:

"Your Exterior surface should be sealed with multiple coats of a high-solids, UV-inhibiting, penetrating solvent-based sealer. This sealer will repel dirt, dust and other substances that can get a foot-hold on concrete surfaces and promote the growth of mold and mildew. Basic care is as shown below:

1. If you notice a powdery white or splotchy appearance; especially after a rain, the sealer is doing its job. This is the dirt/dust mentioned above. A rinse with a garden hose followed by a squeegee pull or leaf blower blow-dry will remove the excess water and dust.

2. Pressure washing is generally not needed. A rinse or a blow dry will remove most things on the surface.

3. If there was a spill of a soft drink or something you didn’t see right away, use a mild soap like Ivory liquid in some warm water to loosen the material. Rinse and blow and you are back to a clean surface.

4. Plastic glides or Magic Movers should be affixed to heavy furnishings or those which will move frequently.

5. Potted plants should have a dish placed under them to catch excess water; this is especially true if you use a lot of fertilizer on the plants. White powdery spots are caused by fertilizer run-ff and can be remove with CLR cleaning solution.

6. The surface should be resealed from time-to-time. The manufacturers of the sealant usually recommends resealing every 1 to 2 years. How often your surface needs to be resealed depends on the amount of rain and sunlight it receives plus how much abuse is place on the surface by people or pet animals. When you start to notice that water doesn't bead up on or seems to absorb into the surface, it is time to reseal."

If you're in Louisiana, contact Joe about getting your driveway, patio, or interior floors resurfaced with decorative concrete overlays at (337) 316-4505 or you can email him.

If you'd like to talk to a decorative concrete or acid stained concrete specialist in your area, consider ConstructionDeal.com.

We have a network of concrete companies ready to help with your project. We'll match you to one in your neighborhood - at no cost.

It's the smart way to find a concrete contractor. Simply submit a request or a project and get 4 quotes - sometimes in a matter of minutes. There's no obligation and there's no charge.

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Labels: Acid Stained Concrete, Decorative Concrete, Stained Concrete

Some more tips on Acid Stained Concrete Flooring from Joe Welch at Stained By Design in Louisiana:

As you know, Stained Concrete Floors are growing in popularity. While once reserved for restaurants and stores, stained concrete is becoming more popular in the home. People like the beauty of the surface and the benefits of a surface that doesn’t hold dust.

However, there is one problem with transforming your dull Gray Concrete into an Acid Stained Floor... Once you make something pretty, you notice when it is dirty. Stained Concrete floors should be considered a "Low Maintenance" floor Not a "No Maintenance" floor. This information will give you the knowledge needed to keep your surface looking its best.

Your Custom Interior Floor will last a lifetime if properly maintained. Plastic glides, felt pads, or "Magic Movers" should be affixed to heavy furnishings or those which will move frequently. Use the same precautions you would use for a Hard Wood Floor. A doormat at the outside (Hemp or Rope style) and inside entrance (one with a solid backing that can be shook off outside) of a home will pick up over 85% of the dirt that would otherwise be tracked inside.

One important thing to mention about your walk-off mat is how to choose one. For the first month, an open-back mat such as a carpet remnant should be used while the sealer/finish cures. Plastic-backed products should NOT be used for your mats. An acrylic or plastic backed mat can cause discoloration under and around the mat. This phenomenon is called Plasticizer Migration. This is caused when a plasticizer in a floor mat or floor material transfers itself (migrates) into the floor finish or sealer. When you pull up the mat, you may be tearing up part of your sealer. If a solid backed mat is used, it should be a mat with a backing of 100% Rubber material.

ACID STAINED CONCRETE FLOORING CARE INSTRUCTIONS:

Daily Dust Mopping

Dusting removes the fine dust and grit which can grind away floor finish. It will help prevent major floor finish deterioration caused by normal foot traffic. The best results are obtained by using a Micro-Fiber Dust Mop. The following procedures should be followed:

1. Dust mop the floor in one continuous movement without lifting the mop off the floor. Overlap your stroke on each pass (you can also vacuum but without the brush turning.)

2. Clean the dust mop after each use by shaking it outdoors; clean it with a brush over a garbage can, or vacuuming it.

3. NEVER use a "Swiffer Wet-Jet" type of cleaning tool. The liquid in these devices contain trace amounts of solvent material. The solvent will not harm the sealer but will cause the wax to egg-shell. Also, you should not use ammonia, bleach or Pine Sol.

Damp Mopping

1. Damp mopping with cool water and a neutral PH cleaner extends the floor finish life. It will not dull the finish and will enhance the gloss retention.

2. Follow the recommended dilution rates on label directions.

3. The mop should be wrung out tightly so that it is just damp. Do not allow the cleaning solution to puddle.

4. NEVER use a "Swiffer" type of cleaning tool (I know this is a repeat from above but I must state this again.)

Waxing

Wax is the sacrificial coating to protect the sealer and bear the brunt of the scuff and scratches. Your floor should be finished with 4 coats of wax on top of the sealer for additional protection. When this is done, the wax coats bear the brunt of the traffic load and preserve the concrete and sealer. It is much easier to apply a refresher coat of wax than it is to reseal a floor. Use a commercial-quality floor finish of at least 20% solids material as the final coatings. Never use Mop-n-Glo or similar wax products. These quickie products do not have the durability to last for very long.

1. How often you need to re-wax depends on the abuse you, your children or pets put on the floor. It varies by owner and may be anywhere from every 6 months to every year.

2. Use a looped-end Rayon mop -- synthetics release material cotton absorbs.

3. Pour a dinner-plate sized puddle on the floor and spread it evenly and thinly. Spread the material across the surface and let it dry for 1 hour. You are now ready for foot traffic again.


If you need to find an Acid Stained Concrete Contractor, submit your request to ConstructionDeal.com - we've got a network of qualified concrete experts. You can get 4 quotes fast - sometimes in a matter of minutes.

At no cost.

Simply fill out a small form online. We send your request to several pros and it will save you time and money. Concrete contractors call you and you get to pick the best quote.

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Labels: Acid Stained Concrete, Decorative Concrete, Floors

Acid stained concrete floors are growing in popularity. Many people are looking to stained floors as an alternative to carpet, tile and wood. In addition to the marbled beauty of the surface, acid stained floors are low maintenance and don't retain dust which may affect some peoples' allergies. Architect Frank Lloyd Wright was one of the first people to use acid stain on floors in the 1920's.

Acid Stains are not paints. They are a coloring process involving a chemical reaction on a cementitious material. Acid Stains are a mixture of hydrochloric acid, water, and inorganic salts. The acid is not the ingredient that creates the color. The acid opens the pores of the concrete (this is referred to as etch). Once the pores are open, the metallic salts in the mixture react with the hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) in the hardened concrete. When this solution is placed on concrete it colors the concrete by chemically combining the metallic ions with the particles in the concrete to form oxides. It is this reaction - at the ion level - that creates color. The stain mixture needs to react with the concrete for 4 - 6 hours. Many stain artists leave the stain on the slab overnight.

There are many manufactures of Acid Stain and most produce stain in 8 colors that are variations of three basic color groups: black, brown, and blue-green. The basic 8 colors are: Black, Brown, Umber, Red, Tan, Gold, Green and Blue. Some stain manufactures may use adjectives such as Vintage or Antique to describe their color version.

Acid Stain gives concrete a mottled, variegated, marble-like look. An acid stained floor will not look like a paint swatch - it will look like multiple swatches in a basic color range. Never expect Acid Stain to be uniform or have an even tone, you will get different reactions from slab to slab, and even on the same job you may see different coloration patterns. Variations of colors and mottling are to be expected and enjoyed. It is the random mix of tones and shades that gives an acid stained floor its unique beauty.

Some factors that affect the outcome of the finished stain project include:

• Cement properties and mix design
• Admixtures
• Type of aggregate
• Concrete finishing methods
• Concrete age and moisture content when stain is applied
• Weather conditions when concrete is poured and stain is applied
• Efflorescence

In general, cements that produce larger amounts of calcium hydroxide during hydration will show more stain color, and higher cement contents produce more intense colors. A smooth surface may require a stronger stain mixture while a "garage floor" finish will stain at a weaker concentration. If they are near the surface, calcium-based aggregates, such as lime-stone, take stain readily and deepen the color of the concrete above them. Solid aggregates, such as gravel, don’t react with the stain.

Acid stains, unlike paints, are not opaque - they are translucent. Some areas will be darker than others, similar to marble, granite or other natural stone. Along with the naturally occurring variegation and marbling - any blemishes and imperfections in your concrete simply add character and charm. Even cracks can add to the look.

However, each slab is different and there may be problem areas that need to be Faux Finished. This is most often caused by things that may have already reacted with the concrete or things that were spilled/dropped on the concrete. These may include Plumber's Flux, Construction Adhesives, paints and other such items. When talking to your stain contractor, question them on what they do for these areas. If their response is "You can’t control the stain", "Acid does what it does" or "You get what you get"; get a second opinion. A reliable stain contractor will know how to treat these areas and should not charge extra to do so.

Good luck on your staining project!

Joe Welch
joe (at) stainedbydesign (dot) com


For additional information on how Concrete Acid Stains Works and more sample pictures, click the link above and it will take you to Joe's site "Stained By Design" - his decorative concrete overlay business in Louisiana!

If you'd like to find an acid-staining concrete installer in your neighborhood, submit your request today to ConstructionDeal.com! It's free to find local Decorative Concrete Pros in your area.

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Labels: Acid Stained Concrete, Decorative Concrete, Flooring Options, Floors